Tears:

No running water in downtown Addis where we stayed, due to flooding.

Tracks 4 Africa is pretty hopeless in Ethiopia, it has let us down on many occasions and I sorely regret not bringing my Africa atlas.

Torrential rainfalls every single day have made camping impossible. We’ve been staying in good hotels, but our budget has suffered.

Way too many people make Ethiopia a challenge for overlanders. In most rural villages time has stood still. With barefoot pilgrims and donkeys being the principal mode of transport, it often feels like Biblical times.

Hardly any sign of schools.

Smiles:

Exquisite countryside – north of Addis the scenery is reminiscent of Scotland’s Hebrides islands. Expansive heathland that could be the Isles of Mull, Skye and Iona.

The Blue Nile Gorge, which contests the Fish River Canyon’s claim as Africa’s deepest, is unforgettable.

The most fertile soil any farmer could wish for. Jannie reckons he should not have bothered with the Olifants River valley.

Two days at the Tana Hotel (which is not nearly where T4A says it is) on the lakeshore in Bahir Dar have given us time to do laundry and chill.

Lake Tana monasteries, with colourful murals depicting scenes from the Old Testament, and a relaxing half day cruise.

Food (eating out) is so cheap in Ethiopia, it is hardly worth preparing it yourself. The downside is our freezer remains jam-packed.