Smiles

Petrol costs R2,60/litre.

Lush, green farming plots on both east and west banks of the Nile. Amazing fertility, due to the muddy, silty soil. Lovely bougainvilleas lining the streets of Luxor.

T4A once again left us in the lurch, but we eventually found Rezeiky campsite in Luxor. It is decent and shaded, with a pool! Took a dip twice last night in the early morning hours, it is impossible to sleep when it’s 40 degrees. Even at night it simply does not cool down.

Tears

In Luxor, drivers ignore red traffic lights. When we dutifully stopped, one of them went right into our rear. Fortunately he hit the towbar and we have no damage.

The tourist scene is dead. The cruise boats are moored eight deep. The army presence is reassuring on the one hand and off-putting on the other hand. Not conducive to a happy holiday atmosphere. We saw a few Italian and Argentinian tourists at the Luxor sights, but it is a far cry from the hustle and bustle I remember from 2000.